So this is the engine going into my civic (many thanks to Ian at Clockwise Motion)!
- DC5 has longer cam duration and slightly higher compression ratio
- DC5 has slightly shorter 4th, 5th and 6th gear
- DC5 has an LSD (limited slip differential)
The engine differences are good for another 10BHP. Both engines have a 6 speed box so are pretty short overall (compared to my previous 5 speed 98 spec ITR box).
The standard EP3 engine puts out 197BHP but the cat, exhaust and airbox restricts power considerably. Breathing mods can increase power by 15BHP or so. But the K20 responds extremely well to the ultimate in NA (normally aspirated tuning) - individual throttle bodies!
So, I decided on a K20A2 but with a few modifications! Here is the spec:
- K20A2 engine and gearbox
- Clockwise Motion Roller Throttle Bodies
- OBR EFI Euro 1 ECU (as used in TOCA)
- Lightweight flywheel (3.6KGs)
- Baffled Sump
- Quaife ATB LSD
- PAS and Aircon removed (and excess block removed to save weight)
This is a video of the engine on the engine dyno...
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/c594aba4-c227-4399-940f-988b00cd3ee2.htm
The engine has been mapped on an engine dyno to 240BHP and 167FTLBs (this is likley to read around 5% higher on a chassis dyno). This K20 puts out as much torque at 2500RPM as my B18 did at 8500RPM
The car weighs around 1000KGs so that's 240BHP/tonne. To put that into perspective here are some figures from other cars:
- Audi TT Coupe 3.2 V6 Quattro (06) - 172BHP/tonne
- Subaru Impreza 2.5 WRX STi - 184BHP/tonne
- Nissan 350Z Coupe V6 (03) - 194BHP/tonne
- Lotus Exige Coupe 1.8i (04) - 216BHP/tonne
- BMW M3 (01) - 217BHP/tonne
- Porsche 911 Carrera (02) - 224 BHP/tonne
- Mitsubishi Lancer Evo VIII FQ340 - 240BHP/tonne
- Ferrari F355 (99) Coupe Berlinetta - 263BHP/tonne
Say no more!
UPDATE 1
OK, so far I have:
- Fitted the DC5 shifter
- Re-sprayed the engine bay
- Welded in some mounts for my MR2 electro hydraulic PAS pump (more details later)
- Tidied up the wiring in the engine bay
As my K20 is running ITBs, the standard DC5 PAS pump wont fit on the block (the EP3 has an electronic system which can't be used on my setup). I could have re-located the pump at the bottom of the block (where the air-con pump used to be) but the PAS pump will drain power from the engine when running of the belt. Hondata in the US reckon that the DC5 PAS pump drains up to 8.5BHP peak!! So, I decided on trying the MR2 electro-hydraulic pump - yet to see if it works OK but fingers crossed.
UPDATE 2
Well, the engine is in. Went in fairly easily seeing as I was doing it on my own. I was finally able to see what the sump clearance was like - 3.5" - mmmm but the car was lowered a bit too far to be honest so raised the coilovers and inch and it looks a lot more respectable now. Sump guard and my stiff suspension should mean no nasty accidents.
Also tested the MR2 PAS setup with the car on the ground and it works really well - I am really please with that. It is very noisy but that should be drowned out by the sound of the throttle boddies!
Next stage is the wiring and make a jig for my custom manifold/header. Also decided that an OEM full width DC2 rad might just fit in the space so I might ditch the half width Fluidyne rad in the pciture. Watch this space.
UPDATE 3
Well things have been a bit quiet recently as I've been waiting a while for the header to be made (there was a lack of bends in the country!!). Anyway, during the quiet period I have:
- Fitted radiator and fan
- Done all the wiring
- Fitted all hoses etc..
- Made a sump guard
And here is the custom manifold:
Pretty amazing feat of engineering. I gave Ben, the fabricator, a pretty tight jig to work to (there is not much space behind the block) and he has done it. It has equal length (17") primaries which were a struggle to get (hence the bendy look!). Even more amazing is that it fits (well, a bit of grinding off the subframe is required) but given this was built on a bench and not the car, pretty good. I'll be fitting a flexipipe joint between the manifold and the rest of the exhuast system and I'll put a wideband sensor thread in that.
So this week I'll fit the manifold, ITG sausage filter, fill up the fluids and then we may be ready to start her up!
UPDATE 4 - IT'S FINISHED
Oh my God - it is a monster! Just starting it up it sounds like a fire breathing dragon - the induction raw, the dodgy bodged exhaust (for the moment) and the whining MR2 PAS pump. It sounds awesome. The solid engine mounts also add to the touring car feel (I need some ear plugs!)
First drive impressions? I have serious traction problems! 1st and 2nd gear are pretty redundant, just about gets traction in 3rd and just keeps flying up to 6th. Vtec cuts in at 3100 (and on load) but the power is all the way from 1.5k. Will take it back up to Ian for a final map in a week or so once I get the new exhaust on.
Fatest tyres I can get on 7j rims is next on my shopping list.
NEARLY!
Been running it in slowly - let everything settle (amazing how much quieter it now sounds) - got a nice 2.5" exhaust sorted, got some A048s on, trimmed the bonnet (so it doesnt foul on the ITBs)
Had a couple of minor hiccups - slipped a circlip off the CV joint (leading to no drive) and then shredded a CV joint (no drive again!). Anyway, turns out I was sent the wrong driveshafts from the states. I now have some Stage 3s (500WHP) ones on the way.
Other than that it's been faultless. Difficult to estimate power but I have an Apexi RSM which has always been fairly accurate and I've been pulling 0-100KMH with wheelspin in 4.5 seconds!
I think I am going to need a full width rad as the half width fluidyne isn't up to the job (particularly on track). And it's going to have to be a custom made one - I've looked at all types (DC2, DC5, EP3, EVO4, EVO8) and none fit (ITBs get in the way). Brakes could do with upgrading as well - they stop well but cooling is not so good. I have some Hispec 4 pots and ITR 262mm rear calipers on the way.
Although the MR2 PAS system works well, it feels a bit over assisted and you lose feel at speed. I need to try and drop the voltage to it (tricky when it's pulling 60A!). I did try the car without PAS at the weekend (bled the fluid and looped the pipes) but it is too stiff - you end up fighting the car.
!!!!!!WHOOPS!!!!!!
A mis-shift at Castle Combe resulted in this: (but don't worry the story continues at www.k20civic2.blogspot.com)